The Owners flannel suit
Jeden z prvních článků našich hostů je potřeba trochu uvést a představit autora. Denis Tureček je, jak sám říká, menswear nadšenec, spisovatel (kromě svého blogu napsal i e-knihu) a v poslední době hlavně novopečený otec na plný úvazek.
My se s Denisem známe nějakou chvíli a už jsme spolu pár kousků ušili. O našem posledním společném výtvoru Denis napsal super text a my vám ho chceme tímto nabídnout k přečtení i u nás v TOW Nespaper.
Celý Denisův blog je v angličtině a ani článek o nás není výjimkou. Jde tak i o první článek, který si může přečíst asi kdokoliv na světě.
Here it is - long expected review about my new flannel suit. In addition to my post about new tailors in Prague (but very experienced), I'll show you this new suit, explain requests I had to Michal Trnka (Tailor & Chief Designer at The Owners) and if a finished suit successfully fulfilled those demands. Also, I'll tell you why I wanted to go for this suit. I believe that in this post you'll find many pieces of information so you can decide if this suit is also for you or not.
First of all, I absolutely understand that some of you may consider flannel as "something our grandfathers wore in the past". Or "I only wear flannel shirts, but why the heck should I wear a suit from it?". In my thoughts, I was there before some time. Not so long ago. Since then, I discovered terrific flannel suits worn by Andreas Weinas, Mathias Le Févre and Berlin tailor Maximillian Mogg, who definitely contribute to promoting it.
Although the people mentioned above can have different approaches, they prove that you can wear pretty much everywhere and anywhere with ease. Except for summer. The fact remains if you like suits, flannel (which is not specific material but wool whose upper side is "brushed") is not a formal one, therefore, a great for many opportunities without looking overdressed. It's easy to mix it with less formal pieces - denim shirt, Barbour jacket, rugged knitwear. I will prepare for you another post on this subject, where I want to have pictures from the atelier where I show you many possibilities.
Let's have a specific look at the suit, then. As mentioned, it is not formal (although definitely more than chinos and a polo shirt, obviously), yet you can wear it for evening parties (oh my god, hope they will be back soon...), lunches, dinners or for a walk. Yes, for a walk as it is exceptionally comfortable - more on this subject later.
“Grey flannel trousers are perhaps the most versatile winter piece ever.”
This suit - if you decide to go for it - you'll wear it often separately. Grey flannel trousers are perhaps the most versatile winter piece ever. The upper body can be dressed into pretty much anything, and you can wear it with the majority of shoes as well. The jacket has a similar function, as shown below, with white trousers and a houndstooth waistcoat - a beautiful combination.
Now, how I wanted to look and why. Michal is an advocate of Italian style and soft shoulders. I would call my current style a bit split between Italian and British. By the way, I did find out unintentionally that my style is more British in the winter and Italian in the summer, and it ultimately makes sense. Unbuttoned shirt with loafers in summer and flannel suit with Barbour jacket in winter. Both are infinitely practical and convenient in current conditions. But, back to the subject, I like to combine those styles and someday day to wear "Italian" stuff and the other something that could be described as "British".
However, when I decided on this suit, I was determined to have it closer to the British one as this suit represents definitely colder temperatures. So, hence our discussion about shoulder and lapel. These were spots we were discussing probably the majority of the time. In the end, I decided to go with moderate padding of a shoulder - so they keep the structure, look more "Savile Row made" but not an extreme as Edward Sexton would do.
Regarding lapels, Michal offered a curved lapel, which they can now do, and it looked lovely; surely, I would recommend it to everyone who would go with "Spalla camicia" shoulder and Italian flair. But we both agreed that for the style I want, straight will be better.
“A hint for everyone who will be visiting The Owners: Sometimes it pays off to ask Michal a question such as "What do you think about curved lapel, and why should I go for it?" and let him talk. When he finishes, you'll know by then if you want to go for it or not.”
Next, I chose a notch lapel as I already have some suits/jackets with peak lapels, which I love. But I wanted to highlight it's not a formal purpose as it is a suit I will play with a lot. I let Michal added another button - the so-called 2.5 buttons. It means there is a buttonhole in the lapel, and the button is under the opposite lapel. It is perfectly functional, but it rarely uses.
So why people do that if it's rarely or never used? Because while others cannot usually see the button, the buttonhole in the lapel can and again, it makes the suit look more stylish, in my opinion. Despite Tom Ford is doing it or did in the past on formal suits, it lowers the formality a bit, according to my perception.
The jacket is also intentionally cut, not very tight, so it would be possible to fit a shetland wool sweater underneath it with ease. I count on wearing it when the outside temperature will warm up a bit without a coat but still some knitwear under the jacket. The cut is also more "traditional", meaning that it is longer. There is nothing worse than butt cut in half by your jacket. Maybe even thin lapels, which looks like your tailor didn't have enough material to finish the jacket properly.
Similar requirements applied for the trousers - I went for a high waist, which is the main character of comfort and a more generous cut. Not only it is more pleasant, and it feels like sweatpants - only much warmer - it also lowers the probability of wear and tear. Two inward-facing pleats make a cleaner silhouette and adding some comfort when sitting or reaching in a pocket.
To underline style, I also have my first MTM suit ever with cuffs. Standard 5 cm. I feared from the beginning that as I am no high man (around 180 cm) and it is a known fact that cuffs make you even smaller, I was ensured by Michal that he believes it causes me no troubles and much smaller guys are wearing them. And he was right.
Trousers are with a side adjuster rather than belt loops as I like the cleaner look, and they're equipped with braces buttons. To combine them with my favourite Albert Thurston braces with Fleur-de-lys worn by Ralph Fiennes in Skyfall and Spectre is a dream.
This suit is made of flannel by Vitale Barbers Canonico, 340 g/m, Super 100's for everyone interested in details.
Please take this as revealing of my new suit and all the choices I made and why. I must say that except for the fact that the suit arrived a bit looser than I wanted, which required one more alteration, everything was perfect. Shoulders and lapels work as intended, the same I can say about trousers.
photo by Petr Honc @petrhonc